The South-West Ridge Route :
From Base Camp to Camp 1
From Camp 1 to Camp 3
From Camp 3 to summit
Above camp Three stands a 150 meters high ice wall (1) at an average angle of 55° (60° max). Located below the far right of the seracs, it is slightly dangerous and fixing ropes in it requires a lot of attention. During fall, it is made of a hard blue ice and it is worth sharpening the crampons to climb it.
Going right of the seracs gives access to the upper Dablam. The Bergscrund (2) that follows isn't too much opened usually. Eventually, you'll have to climb the final Ice flutes (3). Many books report them as easy 50° slopes which is quite different from what we encountered. 300 meters high, at an average angle of 60° (65° max). A spanish expedition with several 8000'ers with technical climb experience was willing to reach the summit in an Alpine fashion. But they resigned because they anticipated a difficult descent in these slopes without abseils.
Then, the summit offers a good rest: a quite wide horizontal ridge hung in the sky allowing to admire the surronding 8000 before returning with care to the descent.
Index | Team | Log Book | Gallery | Altitude | Links